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Les huitres irlandaises de marennes oléron

L’huître de Marennes-Oléron compte parmi les joyaux du patrimoine gastronomique français. Jusqu’à peu, avec ses 6000  hectares de parcs et de claires, le bassin de Marennes-Oléron produisait et commercialisait jusqu’à 70 000 tonnes d’huîtres, soit plus d’un milliard d’huîtres.

Mais lorsqu’en 2008 la surmortalité des huîtres touche la région, la production s’écroulent, les prix explosent et les ostréiculteurs voient leur activités reculer.

C’est dans ce contexte que Benoît Massé, ostréiculteur du Château d’Oléron, se lance dans l’exportation d’huîtres irlandaises. Plus de 150 tonnes d’huîtres sont ainsi importées chaque année d’Irlande, calibrées chez l’ostréiculteur et réexpédiées en Chine, en Italie, à Hong-Kong, où elles connaîtront un véritable destin de star puisqu’elles y sont vendues deux fois plus cher qu’en France.

Entre 17€ et 18€ la douzaine sur les marchés, entre 25€ et 30€ la douzaine dans les restaurants.

Plus charnues, plus sucrées, ces huîtres irlandaises ont un goût bien différent des huîtres traditionnelles de Marennes-Oléron. Elles représentent pourtant un met de choix à l’étranger, et de sur quoi un revenu complémentaire non négligeable pour certains ostréiculteurs français.

C’est donc tout naturellement que cet ostréiculteur en est venu à tirer parti des qualités exceptionnelles des huîtres traditionnelles d’Oléron et de l’environnement tout aussi exceptionnelle des côtes irlandaises. Dès les mois de mars, de jeunes huîtres d’Oléron sont ainsi envoyées grandir 7/8 mois dans les eaux irlandaises pour y grandir plus rapidement et s’adoucir. Benoit Massé a ainsi créé une nouvelle gamme de d’huîtres « Cuvée Prestique ». 10% de sa production est ainsi expédiée chaque année dans les eaux froides irlandaises.

Elles naissent en France, partent en Irlande pour grossir et reviennent ensuite dans les claires charentaises pour continuer leur croissance et s’affiner.

Source : Christine Hinckel, Valérie Prétot,





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